A Protestant, a Catholic, and a Jew walk into a mosque...

Wondering where this man is while wearing jeans, a t-shirt, and a backwards 'USA' cap? Your last guess would probably be that he is praying in the third largest mosque in the world.

Yes, Indonesia is the home of the third largest mosque in the world; the only two bigger ones are in Mecca and Medina. With 85% of their 270 million population being Muslim, this mosque in the center of Indonesia's capital city of Jakarta is almost always packed. Beautifully constructed under Soeharto finished in 1978, this mosque is wide open without solid outer walls. It's simplicity and openness is inviting and hosts not only prayer and worship services but also a center for culture and community. We were allowed to come in freely and visit with the only requirements of taking off our shoes.

the area is separated by gender from left to right



Not only were we welcome to wonder and visit during a service, there were plenty of people casually dressed even some women. Although the majority were wearing the white garments you see in the photos. Perhaps even more striking, the national cathedral was literally right across the street with its towering steeples easily seen from the mosque.

The national Catholic cathedral is a beautifully building also with very simple architecture. The inside is entirely ornate wood. Equally as inviting, as we were able to walk right in to take pictures even though it was in the middle of a wedding ceremony! Wedding Crashers 2: Indonesia. No one seemed to mind either. 

Since a Protestant, a Catholic, and a Jew can ignorantly walk into a mosque, Indonesia's religious tolerance is no joke. The national cathedral right across the street from the national mosque and are both thriving with activity. So when you hear of the 17 churches that got attacked in Indonesia last year remember that is 17 out of 50,000 and that those 17 attacks are largely economically motivated not necessarily religious antagonism. Also, remember the man in the USA hat... Death to America?! ... not so much.

oh and the mosque was designed by a Christian architect 



God Bless America, Australia, Canada, and all the Ex-Pats

Coming to Indonesia, I expected to see few English speakers and certainly not anyone that we weren't interviewing. By chance we stayed in Kemang, a small area in South Jakarta, that is perhaps the only ex-pat dense area in the city, perhaps the country. We found friendly faces in restaurants asking what young Americans could possibly be doing in Indonesia and found common ground in our out-of-place-ness. I learned that the oil industry is quite active over here and over dinner we met a mix of Texans, Canadians, and Australians who have bounced all over the world before settling for a tour in Indonesia. They treated us like one of their own. Everyone we met was more than willing to go out of their way to help us with our research and put us into contact with someone who can help. The kindness and generosity shown by the tightknit ex-pat community here is one of the many amazing things I'll remember about my brief stay in Indonesia.

The Canadian parents we never had or knew we wanted

Not the best time for a nap

From stepping off the plane the first day and being greeted with the warm sour stench of open sewers mixed with the unrelenting tropical heat to climbing Mt. Batur and experiencing the sublime in Bali to a whole new degree, Indonesia has both assaulted and caressed the senses. There is a common theme of extremes in Indonesia. The disparity in wealth is amazing. Shopping centers like massive consumer temples attended by throngs of pilgrims are juxtaposed to concrete shacks with corrugated steel roofs. I have had the opportunity to meet business men and women who by any standards are wealthy beyond reason. This country offers so much to the world but little to the vast majority of the population who live on 2 dollars a day. I cannot help but ask myself what the American landscape looked like 16 years after our independence. We were a country based on unalienable and God-given rights…if you were a white protestant. In an effort to fight my growing ethnocentricity I have to remind myself democracy, civil rights, and happiness takes time. Well after that bit of rather uncomfortable introspection there is a comical relief. My taxi cab driver fell asleep during rush hour traffic! Like I said extremes, the world around us is in a mad rush while my driver calmly takes a little snooze.

 

 

Umm... okay.

Selamat tinggal

Tonight, it rained.  In many ways, I wish it rained more in Jakarta because the rain usually cools the city down a little bit.  Tonight, however, the rain made the short walk to dinner much more treacherous (walking around Jakarta isn't easy in the first place) because puddles appeared in all the cracks in the pavement.  The rain falling and the puddles made it difficult to see the holes in the "sidewalk".  These holes open right into the sewer system.  Falling into one would definitely lead to an extended stay in Singapore!

Tomorrow is my last day in Indonesia; I can't believe it is already time to leave!  I have learned so much about Indonesian culture, history, and of course, civ-mil during my time here.  To summarize some of my feelings about Indonesia, I'll make two lists:

Things I will miss about Indonesia when I return to the US:

• the wide variety of fruit juices at restaurants
• cheap cabs
• meeting friendly Indonesians, either on the street or in meetings
• batik everywhere
• using colorful currency
• navigating a language barrier; this may not be true for everyone, but sometimes I think it can be a fun challenge to try to communicate with someone without a common language

Things I will not miss about Indonesia:

• the traffic/pollution
• deciding whether or not to risk it with ice in a drink
• mosquito bites (fortunately, there is no risk of malaria in Jakarta)

I'll be on my way back to Boston in less than 48 hours, until next time Indonesia!

Tidak Inggris

In the frenzied free-for-all that is Jakarta rush hour, a few skilled drivers stand above the rest. These chariots afire blaze through the streets, eeking around motor bikes and sputtering buses alike. Edging inches by their counterparts to jetty tourists to the not-so-far reaches of Jakarta, and playing chicken with oncoming traffic, these taxis are the lifeblood for our trip, without which we’d be stranded like West Point cadets on a boat. While there are many taxis that pour throughout Jakarta, foreigners are advised to stick to the trusty Blue Bird, or their top-flight Silver Bird Mercedes counterparts. One too many expats has told the story of hopping into an off-brand taxi and finding the back seat taken up by a mysterious white powder sloppily packaged in plastic. Luckily the trusty light blue Toyotas that squeeze through the packed streets are aplenty and offer us a means to travel to interviews and cultural sites.

Hailing a taxi in Indonesia is more of an art than a science. First you must extend the right arm (the left hand is considered unclean and is bad juju) and perform the subtle finger flap, no wrist movement! Sometimes the maneuver works a little too well and you’ll have four taxis pull up seeking your business. Competition is even worse at airports, where LT Prager is often seen as the Pied Piper of taxi drivers, leading droves around because his friendly Midwestern tastes prevent him from shutting down their hopes and dreams.

Click for Audio!

Once in the taxi things take a different turn, as most drivers don’t actually know where things in Jakarta are—after all it’s a city of over 18 million. In order to get to your destination you need an exquisite mastery of slow English, where you repeat the same destination over and over until the driver decides to pull away and figure it out on the fly. Nearly every trip results in ballparking the destination to within a few hundred meters and finishing the journey on foot, or your driver pulling over and holding a meeting with the nearest pedestrians to determine the best route to your unknown destination.

“Oh yes, Mordor is just over that mountain, the one with the eye.”

Luckily, what the taxi drivers lack in navigation skills, they make up for in ambition. After experiencing several near-death experiences, I’ve grown to trust their abilities. Though every taxi ride is a struggle in some way, we’ve found a few diamonds in the rough that speak enough English to hold a conversation and tell us about the upcoming elections. One of the candidates even moonlights as a taxi driver!

Not actually the presidential candidate, General Probowo, but he assured us that they’re friends. Luckily the business strategy is a little flawed, and the meter price is based on distance, not time. Thus our two-hour-seven-kilometer journey costs us about 50000 Rupiah, or $5. All in all we’d love to thank our happy feathered friends at Blue Bird. We couldn’t do it without you!

I did nasi that coming (just kidding, I did)

While in Jakarta, we have been staying at one of the many POP! hotels in Indonesia. One of the nice features of our stay has been the free breakfast:

Rice is a staple of Indonesian cuisine; it can be found in every meal of the day. In fact, I would go so far as to say it is the primary source of calories in the Indonesian diet. Some common rice dishes include nasi goreng, nasi uduk, and nasi kuning. Nasi goreng is considered to be the state dish of Indonesia, and when President Barack Obama went on an official state visit to the Presidential Palace of Indonesia, it is said that the White House specifically asked for nasi goreng to be placed on the evening's dinner menu.

In 2010, 18% of children in Indonesia under the age of 5 were reported to be underweight. Although significant progress has been made since 1989, when 31% of Indonesian children under 5 were considered underweight, there is still room for improvement. Between 2012 and 2013, Indonesia was able to increase rice production by 5%. As rice production continues to increase, hopefully Indonesia will be able to provide adequate nutrition to more and more of its population in the years to come.

I don't need it....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA1mbZ_MMh8

 

 

In case you haven't realized from our previous posts: IT'S HOT HERE. It's hot, muggy, polluted, and worse of all you are not supposed to drink the water here. Which means relying on bottled water which is great, but which also means NO ICE. It wasn't too hard the first couple days to hold out and be safe with not drinking water or having beverages with ice, but our fortitude was about as strong as spongebob's once the heat really took its toll. Just don't forget -  pinky up! So we gave in, had the ice, drank smoothies and summer freezes and loved life for about an hour... just check out the "Game of Thrones" post to see how that ended up.

 

But on a serious note, water security here in Indonesia is a major issue. There is a huge lack of drinkable water even in the capital city of Jakarta. Strange to think that a nation of islands has an issue with lack of water. Partly due to the results of pollution, open sewage, and general lack of cleanliness.

 

 

A school boy enjoying the mist at a café after school... the next picture would have been me doing that exact thing

 

 

 

This man here had just filled his jug with the water from this fountain outside one of the many 5 star malls around the city. The thought that this fountain water (still not suitable for drinking by our standards) is cleaner, and probably the cleanest that many like this man can find for cooking, bathing, and possibly drinking is very disturbing. This picture also illustrates the income disparity in the city and in Indonesia. With supermalls with McLaren dealerships and Louis Vuitton next to street food carts (which duel as a home in some cases), open sewage, and people cooking over a leaf and trash fire  for dinner, the difference between rich and poor is dramatic, constant, and strangely not that big of a deal? People are surprisingly content with their status in life, possibly a trait from the Hindu influence in their culture. The important thing to realize this is not the current status but the trajectory of the economy and living conditions. While huge issues exist, Indonesia is and has been on a positive trajectory - and the people know it and feel it.

 

 

The port at Ancol with high-risers going up in the background

 

 

However, the government knows, or needs to realize, that demographics are changing and massive reforms and initiatives need to have started yesterday in order to achieve a sustainable development for the next generation. Not so fun fact: 1/3 of Indonesia's 270 million population is under the age of 14. Both campaigns address this need for reforms for food security, water security, education, among others. After attending a correspondence club where the Prabowo campaign addressed foreign investors and media, the focus was entirely on the long term issues that Indonesia faces. Regardless of who wins, hopefully the focus is on these issues and that they weren't just campaign rhetoric.

 



 



After the first week...

A reflection on the first half of the trip. A little late I know, but maybe that's just me assimilating to the culture here. We're all on Indonesian time now.

It has only been a week, but I feel as though I have a pretty good grasp on Jakarta.  Granted, my frame of observation is limited to the lens of an American tourist who knows next to nothing in Bahasa.  In fact, I realized today that I really ought to know more of the language mostly out of respect for the country I am visiting.  I was perfectly capable of taking a cab from the embassy to the hotel by showing the driver an address and thanking him, but I had no way of asking if he had change so I ended up ‘overpaying’ by less than a dollar which is actually a significant amount in Indonesia.  I wish that I could properly thank the people who work at the hotel, who show me how to mix the ingredients laid out for breakfast and ask if I would like more water bottles.  For now, though, “terima kasih” will have to do and maybe if I say it enough they will understand how thankful I am.  The service here is great besides for a couple of the cab drivers who it seemed purposely took us on the long route, but without knowledge of the language and with minimal sense of the city’s geography, who am I to complain?

And I know how to say, “what’s up?!”…(Apa kabar) because there is a sign for a fast food joint and it says “Apa ka-burger.” Pretty punny if you ask me.  While my grasp on the language is pitiful, I am starting to understand what democracy means and Indonesia and how the interplay of religion and politics is unlike anything I have ever studied.   These are two integral parts of my research.  Previously, when I thought of the Muslim religion, I pictured the Middle East and North Africa, women covered from head to toe, no alcohol in sight, with prayer breaking up the day.  When I thought of conservative Islam, what came to mind was sharia law, extremism, and a hatred for western ‘values.’  In Indonesia, it is none of these things.  After speaking with experts, even the hard-liners of Indonesia are more interested in living a pious life then they are in punishing those who have different beliefs.  Islam in Indonesia can be compared to Christianity in the United States.  And while many politicians will run on a Christian platform that advertises certain virtues, the religion affects policy-making to a lesser degree.  So what you see in Indonesia is perhaps a candidate appealing to those with a strong Muslim faith, though the policies they later implement may not be based on this faith.  This is just a very brief comment on a very large topic.

Back to my observations.  If I had to describe Jakarta in one image, it would be of the woman I saw today, wearing a hijab and riding a motorcycle while the afternoon prayer played from loud speakers.  I saw her from my taxi window, ready to zoom by with the rest of the inconceivable amount of motorcycles.  Which leads me to my next story.  Two nights ago we attended a panel at the @America headquarters in Jakarta.  @America is a program run by the state department to promote dialogue between young people from around the world.  The panel focused on environmental sustainability and specifically the program “World Forest Watch.”  Simply stated, the program uses satellites to give real time information to local authorities with the location of where deforestation is occurring.  There is also an on the ground element which allows users to update information and verify satellite imagery.  One of the speakers mentioned how by 2030, with the Indonesian middle-class growing at the current rate, there will be three times as many cars in Jakarta.  The current traffic situation allows you to travel approximately 12 km in an hour (not during rush hour). I cannot even begin to image what the roads will be like in 15 years if public transportation infrastructure remains minimal and nothing is done to limit the automobile market.  I will not even begin to explain the smog.  With the rampant deforestation, the congested city streets, and non-existent limits on pollution, a Norwegian expert compared Jakarta to Oslo thirty years ago.  Oslo was able to get its act together; Indonesia remains a big question mark.

Game of Thrones

Except there aren't any games being played here...

and our Iron Throne isn't as impressive...

Street food: looks so good, hurts so bad

Coming to Indonesia, we recognized that we'd be exposed to a multitude of new experiences. New sights, sounds, smells, and perhaps most importantly...food. A trip to any new environment requires adjustment and unfortunately a few pains, but I never imagined the gastrointestinal salsa that my stomach would be doing so regularly. In fact, the second most popular drink on our trip (behind water) has been Pepto Bismol.

The calm before the storm.

While all foods pose the potential for upset tummies, the fresh fruits and veggies and tap water are a one way, debilitating trip to the toilet. It's like reliving the Red Wedding over and over again - except I didn't cry this much after seeing the Red Wedding. Some of our compatriots even caught and incubated an amoeba for a few days, spending some time getting intimate with their toilet. One of the blessings in disguise of travelling to the fish market was scaring us from ever again touching a fish, but I'll let you be the judge of what's safe and what's not.

 Seems Legit

Yes, that is sewage water.

You win or you die when you play the game of thrones.

speaking of which... no HBOGO here -____-

Largest Muslim Nation?

Indonesia is the largest Muslim nation in the world with a population of 270 million about 85% of which are Muslim. However, we really didn't know what to expect when we came to Jakarta. We were briefed about all the do's and do not's of the local culture especially for one that is widely Islamic. We read that Indonesians mostly practice a very moderate Islam, but did not know exactly what that looked like.

The level of moderation in the Indonesians' practice of Islam is incredible. Yes, we are woken up most days by the Call to Prayer, but generally you could easily forget that you are in the most Muslim nation in the world. I have yet to see a burqa, and hijabs are more of a fashion item then a religious practice. The women are dressed very fashionable and sometimes not so moderately. They also are comfortable with running up to us, grabbing us, and taking pictures with us. It is uncomfortable not knowing what is the acceptable level of interaction: do we put our arm around them for the picture? They didn't seem to mind.

The Indonesian culture and history greatly affects every aspect of the country including it's politics and religion. These islands have always been trading posts where religions, cultures, and ideas mixed, and  the economies of these islands relied on good relations with all peoples for trade. This and the influences of Hinduism on the culture has created a personality that is focused on harmony and results in a culture of syncretism which does not bode well with any form of hardline or extreme Islamic practices like we see in other countries in the Middle East. Some say that any Muslim from the Middle East would say the people here aren't actually Muslim by their standard.

Hello ladies

working at McDonalds

That smell. A kind of smelly smell.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cj2rxFS0qDQ&feature=kp

Stepping off the plane and into the Yankee Candle factory that is Indonesia was the first of many new olfactory sensations. "Sweaty tropical musk" isn't yet an available scent for car air fresheners but you can bet that it'll be coming to a store near you soon, along with these other fun flavors:

• Sweaty handwoven batik 
• Open sewage on a rainy day
• Death in a fish market
• Recycled dreams
• "I still can't see my house from here" air pollution
• Street food dysentery
• Cab driver breath
• Please just kill me Durian
• I wouldn't eat that if I were you fruit cart
• This is spicy enough to kill ten men sauce
• I can feel the ozone dying motorcycle exhaust
• Plumeria-masked body odor
• Why are there four cigarettes in your mouth? smoke

Part two coming soon!!

Election Season

Political life in Indonesia is not the same as in the United States but there is a large amount of visible activism for the upcoming presidential election in July. While you don't see a million campaign signs, bumper stickers, and t-shirts for every possible candidate like you do in the US, there are still some large campaign signs around and different colored flags; these flags represent a particular party and are not necessarily there for a certain candidate or even for the election season.

Political demonstrations and rallies are common during this election period and are very public. Driving through the downtown area we found ourselves caught in traffic (not unnormal) but this time it was due to a rally supporting the candidate known as "Jokowi". With the police lined up for protection and the peaceful organized rally including matching outfits of red with banners and flags, I am impressed by the level of mature political activism here in Indonesia.

Asking different locals about the election, which is more difficult than it sounds since hardly any of them speak English, and those that do speak English can generally say 'good morning' or 'yes' and that's about it. So after 30 minutes of hand gestures and deliberation the majority of those asked respond with Jokowi as their favorite, because he 'works hard'. However, at the same time those people say "Jokowi, but not the party" It isn't a secret that Jokowi is a 'hand-shaker' and a great fan favorite that is being driven and supported by the not so favorite party of PDI-P: Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle. With the largely uneducated populace it seems as though whoever can shake the hands and work hard will gain the most votes regardless of platform or experience. I guess we'll find out on July 9th.

Pesan Disini (Drive-Thru)

Jakarta is not walker-friendly.  Needless to say, with the constant traffic, 90% humidity, and non-existent sidewalks, going for the usual 10 mile city run is impossible.  But after three days of pounding on the treadmill, the monotony forced me to slip out of the comforting gates of the American Club and explore the surrounding neighborhood.  The friendly grins that met me with every stride were not something that I am used to.  In the U.S., a mere ‘hello’ is a rare occurrence.  A world away in Jakarta, though, running past a mosque before evening prayer, self-conscious of my bare legs and the skin showing on my arms, the men, women, and children did not hesitate to greet me.  The hospitality here is incredible; the friendliness of the hotel staff, taxi drivers, fishermen, and street vendors always evident in their contagious smiles.

Today we went to a Memorial Day luncheon following a golf tournament that is hosted to raise money for several organizations including the U.S. Marine embassy detachment.  On the way to Serpong, the city where the luncheon took place, our taxi driver shared his story of studying in London, his thoughts of election season, and of the Muslim faith.  He explained how his mom was raised Catholic and converted to Islam when she married his dad.  As we listened to our taxi driver, mostly fluent in English, talk about career, retirement, and travels, we drove by strip malls galore.  While in Jakarta, I have probably seen around 15 malls, each one bigger than the previous.  The American fast food chains that line the road were also curious.  From Pizza Hut to Dunkin’ Donuts, from KFC to Domino’s, Starbucks, and McDonald’s, there is no shortage of American culinary influence here in Jakarta.  There were even drive-thrus!  It seemed to me that Serpong, advertised as “A city that has so much to offer” on numerous billboards, was truly a reflection of Western influence.

The luncheon was impressive with many influential guests, a great spread of fresh fruit, fancy cigars, expensive door prizes, and an abundance of alcoholic beverages.  I sat on a table that consisted of a Scottish oil magnate, a Thai executive for Dow Chemical Company, an Italian financial consultant, and an English entrepreneur.  The sense of community that seemed to exist between the business elite that were present at the event was noticeable in how they joked with each other, cheered as their peers won prizes and bid in the live auction.  The setting, a sprawling golf course complete with an infinity pool and caged hawk, was luxurious and the funds that were raised combined for an astounding donation.  The connections that we were able to make, as a group conducting research related somewhat to the economy, were valuable.

Batik in action at the National Monument (Monas)!